Business Wars

It’s 1987 and Jane Shepherdson, a star buyer for retail chain Topshop, is using her keen ability to predict trends to put the company on the map as the go-to shopping destination for young British women. But when the company is bought by prickly business tycoon Philip Green, all of her hard work is at risk. Meanwhile, Swedish company H&M opens its first store in the US, and a groundbreaking collaboration with Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld pushes the limits of what fast fashion can be.

It’s 1974 and Amancio Ortega, determined to break the cycle of poverty he experienced growing up in Spain, uses his background in retail and manufacturing to found future fast fashion giant Zara. Meanwhile, Topshop is born as a small section in the basement of a department store, and future CEO Philip Green flounders with a misguided attempt to break into the denim business. And overseas in California, a pair of Korean immigrants chasing their American dream found Forever 21, the most affordable fast fashion brand yet.

It’s 2010, and a series of deadly tragedies at factories in Bangladesh paint H&M and the fast fashion industry in a negative light. In response, the company doubles down on sustainability, launching a new eco-friendly line. Meanwhile, Forever 21 goes to court over copyright infringement allegations, and Zara invests in technology to streamline its supply chain. But there’s a new player on the scene, Chinese company Shein, and their online-only business model is about to change the game.

It’s 2018, and H&M is drowning in billions of dollars worth of unsold inventory. Brick and mortar stores are struggling. But on the internet, Shein is thriving, capitalizing on social media trends to get desirable, ultra-cheap clothing made and into customers’ hands in a matter of days. And once the head of the pack, Topshop is at risk when Philip Green is very publicly accused of abuse, racism, and sexual harassment. Forever 21 finds itself in a heap of trouble too.

It’s 2019, and the internet is overflowing with videos of satisfied customers showing off their Shein hauls. But it’s not all smooth sailing when allegations go viral that the company steals from independent designers. Meanwhile, former Topshop brand director Jane Shepherdson has a new gig in the clothing rental business-- but is renting outfits actually more eco-friendly? Shein makes a play to save Topshop, but the company is bought by another online shopping giant, with a catch. And in the hands of new leadership, Forever 21 tries to start anew in a rapidly changing fashion landscape.

Fast fashion has a crisis on its hands. The industry is wreaking havoc on the environment, and even the execs are starting to notice. Massive amounts of pollution and textile waste have taken a toll on the planet as these shops continue to send runway styles to mainstream markets in record time. The bargains keep consumers coming back for more, but how long can it last? And what will it take to change the habits of shoppers used to getting the latest trends for cheap? To unpack fast fashion and its future, we spoke with Rachel Tashjian, Fashion Critic at GQ, who's written extensively about the fashion world and its relationship with the environment. We'll explore the dilemmas facing the space today, and some of the ways the industry and the consumers are working toward building a more sustainable closet.