Michael Portillo continues his thousand-mile journey aboard the Reunification Railway from Ho Chi Minh City in the south to the capital, Hanoi, and on to the vast northern port of
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Michael Portillo continues his thousand-mile journey aboard the Reunification Railway from Ho Chi Minh City in the south to the capital, Hanoi, and on to the vast northern port of Haiphong. He finishes amid the limestone islets in the turquoise waters of Halong Bay.
Steered by his 1913 Bradshaw’s Guide, Michael travels through what was French Indochina and is today the Socialist Republic of Vietnam. En route, he tours the formidable imperial city of Hue and in a village nearby, Michael meets milliner Mrs Ngo, who tries to teach him how to make the iconic conical hat.
Back on track, Michael crosses the former Demilitarized Zone, which once separated North from South Vietnam. A ten-hour journey lies ahead, but the friendliness of fellow passengers and supper on board makes up for the bunk beds, and by daybreak he is in the beautiful province of Ninh Binh.
In the Red River Delta, Michael takes a boat ride to join farmer Mr Vinh to learn how to make a Ninh Binh speciality, com chay.
Approaching Hanoi, Michael passes the famous train street, where the locomotive passes within centimetres of the houses either side of the tracks. Checking into the capital’s famous Metropole Hotel, built at the time of his guidebook, Michael discovers a bunker, where guests sheltered from American bombardment during the Vietnam War. And at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, Michael hears about the nationalist leader and his struggle for independence for Vietnam. Egg coffee is a new experience in the Old Quarter, and a water puppet show is a hit.
At a former Soviet factory which once supplied military uniforms to the North Vietnamese army and Viet Cong, Michael discovers a progressive new manufacturer, which supplies sportswear to the United States Olympic team. Michael works out with the workers.
The vast container port of Haiphong offers Michael an insight into Vietnam’s future. He ends his journey amid the spectacular limestone islets and turquoise waters of Halong Bay.