Bernadette Banner

I severely apologize for whatever this is. (This has nothing to do with my usual historical sewing but Mrs Crocombe is never not relevant, right?) The original recipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HeL5rk-UnjM&t=123s&list=PLx2QMoA1Th9deXXbo7htq21CUPqEPPGuc&index=3 Mrs Crocombe appears in the ‘Victorian Way’ series produced by English Heritage. The full playlist can be found here: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLx2QMoA1Th9deXXbo7htq21CUPqEPPGuc MUSIC CREDITS: Marty Gots a Plan Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/ Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) and Hana’s Instagram instagram.com/hana.dehart (@hana.dehart) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time.

Download June's Journey for free here: https://pixly.go2cloud.org/SHyT Thanks to June's Journey for sponsoring this video Noelle’s channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGfIQhkqB_CMTW7wVGYSz_A MATERIALS USED: (Please know that these are affiliate links) Cold press watercolor paper: https://amzn.to/2Fzl7qa Sable watercolor brushes (#2, #10, and #0 used here): https://amzn.to/2DfgXBt Watercolor palette: https://amzn.to/2FwRpSH Windsor & Newton Gouache for opacity (sepia, red ochre, raw sienna, zinc white): -Starter pack: https://amzn.to/2SYmqSJ -More advanced pack: https://amzn.to/2Fv3IyU -(Gouache is mega expensive so I usually just buy the tubes individually as needed from my local art supply shop and have been collecting colors for years, but the starter pack (or even just a basic R/Y/B, black and white) should be all you need to start off. I can tell you from experience that settling for cheaper brands is *not* worth it as the difference in paint quality is significant. W&N paints are water soluble and so can be re-wetted and used again once dried, while most others dry into plastic and cannot be reused. This also means that the paint behaves differently on the paper during use: water soluble paints should be able to be reworked after drying, but the cheaper qualities can’t do that. I shall stop pontificating about paints now. Carry on.) Masking fluid: https://amzn.to/2SU4Q22 Background textured with tea leaves (Tetley’s English Breakfast if you must know). Fabric texturing from this random burlap bag I found. MUSIC CREDITS: “Web Weaver’s Dance” by Asher Fulero, YouTube Audio Library Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/peopl

The game is afoot! Hunting for the perfect materials for my upcoming project, a historical (c. 1890s) interpretation of a lady Sherlock Holmes. (Apologies for my shakey stealth-vlogging at some parts; perhaps maybe don’t put this on full screen if you’re sensitive to motion. :) ) Aesthetic American Duchess shoes are the Londoners, which I love with all my heart and soul (but maybe not my back on long fabric shopping days! I'm sorry, please love me) https://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-shoes-boots/londoner-edwardian-oxfords-cherry ITEM SOURCES: Sherlock coat wool: Fabrics & Fabrics (270 W. 38th St 2nd floor) Skirt/waistcoat wool: Ayazmoon (214 W. 39th St) Ivory silk ribbon, red grosgrain, 1” twill tape: M&J Trimming (1008 6th Ave, between 37th &38th) Corset satin: Mood Fabrics (255 W. 37th St, 3rd floor) Insertion lace remnant: East Coast Trimming (142 W. 38th St) Muslin: Fabric Wholesale Direct (https://www.fabricwholesaledirect.com/products/muslin-fabric) Silesia: Bias Bespoke (https://www.biasbespoke.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=94&category_id=40) Spoon busk: Farthingales (https://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/Spoon-Busk-p/91-8555.htm) Symington corset patterns: https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/index.php?a=ViewItem&key=R3siTiI6MTMsIlAiOnsiaXRlbV90eXBlcyI6WzJdfX0&pg=8&WINID=1548991023666#tFucWKSYIDgAAAFnlHyA7w/18697 REF #23940: https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=18778#.XFO6MM9KgWp Other shops visited/mentioned: Day to Day (262 W. 38th St) A&K (257 W. 39th St) Beckenstein Fabrics (257 W. 39th St) H&M ? Material World? (That mysteriously nameless shop) (257 W. 39th St) Fabrics Garden (249 W. 39th St) Hamed (251 W. 39th St) Mokuba (137 W. 38th St) Joyce Trimming (109 W. 38th St) B&Q Trimming (102 W. 38th St) B&J Fabrics (525 7th Ave, 2nd floor) MUSIC CREDITS: ‘You Had to Be’ by E’s Jammy Jams, YouTube Audio Library Fast Talkin by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons A

Basically a documentary on how I made a pair of c. 1890s Victorian combinations using Victorian patterns and stitching techniques. THINGS MENTIONED: Agnes Walker, ’Manual of Needlework and Cutting Out’ (for the pattern) https://archive.org/details/krl00366374/page/n245 Bertha Banner, ‘Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking’ https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=IhMlyt7IuGsC&printsec=frontcover&pg=GBS.PA9 Hecht Sewing Machine and Motor: 304 W. 38th St. NYC For a more modern (read: practical) construction diary of 90s combinations, Enchanted Rose Costumes has one coming soon! https://www.youtube.com/user/EnchantedRoseCostume Shoes worn at the end are the ‘Gibsons’ by American Duchess. MATERIALS USED: White cotton: Fabric Garden, NYC. 1.5 yd Insertion lace: Joyce Trimming, NYC. 24 yds single edged lace (to be doubled) Waist and cuff insertion lace: East Coast Trimming, NYC. 2.5 yd Satin ribbon: M&J Trimming, NYC. 2.5 yd Closure ribbon: M&J Trimming, NYC. 1/2 yd Cotton thread: John Lewis Silk thread (for seaming insertion lace together and attaching to cotton): John Lewis Cookies, approximately 8 needed to fuel finishing SEWING TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX) -Large Newsprint Pad: https://amzn.to/2QF7uHQ -Actual pattern paper: https://amzn.to/2DjwEbj -Butcher’s paper: https://amzn.to/2DFtkIh -French Curve: https://amzn.to/2RWzWVJ IMAG

**THIS PO BOX IS NO LONGER ACTIVE. ITEMS SENT HERE WILL NOT REACH ME.** Mrs Crocombe’s ‘The Victorian Way’ videos on the English Heritage channel: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLx2QMoA1Th9deXXbo7htq21CUPqEPPGuc English Heritage web shop for some nice presents: https://www.english-heritageshop.org.uk/ (UPDATE: THEY SELL ACTUAL SWORDS AND SO MANY OBJECTS OF HISTORYTRASH TEMPTATION help) MUSIC CREDITS: “English Country Garden” by Aaron Kenny, YouTube Audio Library Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time.

This was...an attempt. Music Credits: Marty Gots a Plan Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/ Merry Go - Silent Film Light by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100731 Artist: http://incompetech.com/ Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. Ms Bernadette Banner P.O Box 24 Radio City Station New York, NY 10101 USA

I accidentally wrote an essay whilst researching for my corset project, so enjoy. Stay tuned for the actual making adventures of said corset. More interesting analyses on corset myth things: "Busting Corset Myths" on Foundations Revealed: http://foundationsrevealed.com/articles/corset-making/health/562-busting-corset-myths "The Edwardian Silhouette Emerges" by Cathy Hay https://thepeacockdress.com/2015/02/the-edwardian-silhouette-emerges/ SOURCES Arnold, Janet. “Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen’s Dresses & Their Construction C. 1860 - 1940”, 1982. Bradfield, Nancy. “Costume in Detail: Women’s Dress 1730-1930”, 1968. Flower, B. O. “Fashion’s Slaves.”, 1892. https://archive.org/details/fashionsslaves00flow/page/n8 Flower, William Henry. “Fashion in Deformity”, 1881. https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=yTYZAAAAYAAJ&hl=en&pg=GBS.PA78 Kim, Alexandra and Mida, Ingrid. “The Dress Detective”, 2015. Langley Moore, Doris. “The Woman in Fashion”, 1949. O’Followell, Ludovic. “Le corset; histoire, médecine, hygiène”, 1908. https://catalog.nyam.org/cgi-bin/koha/opac-detail.pl?biblionumber=217689 Schwarz, G. S. “Society, physicians, and the corset”, 1979. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1807654/ Steele, Valerie. “The Corset: A Cultural History”, 2003. Thomas, Theodore Galliard. “A Practical Treatise on the Diseases of Women” (6th edition) 1892 https://books.google.com/books?id=3OHsADOwjH4C&printsec=frontcover&dq=galliard+thomas+practical+treatises+on+the+diseases&hl=en&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwivh5mo2bLgAhWOwFkKHVHYCeIQ6AEIKjAA#v=onepage&q&f=false (specifically the heading ‘Impracticalities of Dress’) The Toronto Daily Mail issue dated 5th May, 1883. https://news.google.com/newspapers?id=UP1MAAAAIBAJ&sjid=9jQDAAAAIBAJ&pg=4608,2577118 Measurement chart taken from ‘details’ on this dress: https://www.forever21.com/us/shop/catalog/product/f21/dress/2000339672 Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagr

Vlogging an adventure to the New York Public Library whilst I was researching for last week's corset myths video essay! THINGS REFERENCED: "The Woman in Fashion" by Doris Langley Moore "The Corset: A Cultural History" by Valerie Steele "Costume in Detail" by Nancy Bradfield The book I was currently reading: ‘The Dress Detective’ by Alexandra Kim and Ingrid Mida Shoes are the ‘Londoners’ from American Duchess MUSIC CREDITS: Prelude No. 21 by Chris Zabriskie is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://chriszabriskie.com/preludes/ Artist: http://chriszabriskie.com/ Wii Mii Channel Song (???) (I realize this is probably copyrighted but it was such a moment, please don’t come after me with knives and fire) Evening Fall Harp by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100236 Artist: http://incompetech.com/ Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time.

I’m sorry this is SO LONG but here are some time stamps to assuage your impatience: 04:26 - Pattern testing 09:17 - Mockup #1: the 1894 pattern 29:13 - Mockup #2: the modern draft 38:57 - Mockup #3: the historical solution *PLEASE NOTE that this is NOT intended as a resource for medical corsetry or any sort of medical treatment. The goal of this video is to find a way to recreate proper historical shape on an asymmetrical figure for *costume purposes* and is not meant to be worn regularly. ALL OF THE LINKS! Symington pattern REF# 23940 https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=18778#.XFO6MM9KgWp Magical corset drafting tutorial: http://foundationsrevealed.com/articles/corset-making/corset-pattern-making/74-draft-your-own-corset?start=2 MATERIALS USED: Cotton canvas: Gray Lines Linen, NYC Spoon busk: Farthingales https://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/Spoon-Busk-p/91-8555.htm) Synthetic baleen, 4mm x 1mm: Burnley & Trowbridge (https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/GB1.aspx) OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX) -Flexicurve: https://amzn.to/2DG9OvA MUSIC CREDITS: “Web Weaver’s Dance” by Asher Fulero, YouTube Audio Library Evening Fall Piano by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html

Part 2 of my attempts to build a c. 1890s corset from a surviving pattern, ft. lots of Scoliosis. Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhc05WtISV4 The Dress Detective: https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-dress-detective-9781472580535/ Michelle Fitzgerald, @clockwork_faerie: https://www.instagram.com/clockwork_faerie/ Flossing Library: http://foundationsrevealed.com/index-of-articles/corsetry/decoration/514-the-corset-flossing-design-library Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your jam: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop MATERIALS USED: Original Symington pattern, Ref #23940: https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=18778#.XFO6MM9KgWp Silk satin: Mood Fabrics, NYC. 1 yd Cotton sateen: H&M Fabrics, NYC, 1/2 yd Edge lace: East Coast Trimming, NYC. 1 yd Red silk ribbon: M&J Trimming, NYC. 1 yd Flossing thread: Sil Thread, NYC Silk thread used for stitching: Burnley & Trowbridge (https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/STH2.aspx color: “cream”) Lacing: East Coast trimming, NYC. 6 yds Cotton batting: Sil Thread, NYC Spoon busk: Farthingales (https://www.farthingalescorsetmakingsupplies.com/Spoon-Busk-p/91-8555.htm) Synthetic baleen, 4mm x 1mm: Burnley & Trowbridge (https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/GB1.aspx) Linen stay cord: Burnley & Trowbridge (https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/LC1.aspx) Waist tape: M&J Trimming, NYC. 1 yd Grommets: 0/10, do not recommend OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps,

A delusional attempt to complete Lady Sherlock in 22 days. Ft Tartan Day parades, Broadway shows, Foundations Revealed workshops, and general flailing. Noelle's NYC vlog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ntu1DKEDhn4&t=1s & garment district vlog: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aGSVHZqIQ4&t=23s and her channel in general: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGfIQhkqB_CMTW7wVGYSz_A The Keystone Guide to Jacket and Dress Cutting: https://archive.org/details/keystonejacketdr00heck Camera stuff, if you were interested: (Please note that these are affiliate links) Canon G7X Mark ii (the 'vlogging' camera): https://amzn.to/2XmWj9K Canon EOS M50 (the other one): https://amzn.to/2ZloU0Q Shure LensHopper VP83 (the posh mic): https://amzn.to/2Iua1Ed Rode VideoMic Go (the other one): https://amzn.to/2ItM0gK Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. Music Credits: Fast Talkin by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100590 Artist: http://incompetech.com/ “Bike Sharing to Paradise” by Dan Bodan, YouTube Audio Library

Download June's Journey for free here: https://pixly.go2cloud.org/SH15Y Thanks to June's Journey for sponsoring this video MATERIALS USED: Tartan: Fabrics and Fabrics, NYC (1/4 yd) Lining: sent to me by Noelle of Costuming_Drama https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGfIQhkqB_CMTW7wVGYSz_A Ribbon: M&J Trimming, NYC (approx. 24 inches, or 1 yard) Tarlatan: Regular weight (cut from cabbage scraps left over from the skirt). Takach Press, https://shop.takachpress.com/Tarlatan-p/tarlatan.htm Buckram: Steinlauf & Stoller, NYC (only scraps needed) Green main thread: cotton. John Lewis, London. Ivory basting thread: cotton. John Lewis, London. Lining thread: silk. Burnley & Trowbridge (https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/STH2.aspx color: “cream”) OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX) -French Curve: https://amzn.to/2RWzWVJ MUSIC CREDITS: “Web Weaver’s Dance” by Asher Fulero, YouTube Audio Library Waltz (Tschikovsky Op. 40) Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com) Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/ Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of

This is probably really boring, viewer discretion is advised. Morgan Donner: https://www.youtube.com/user/Morgandonner Zack Pinsent: instagram.com/pinsent_tailoring Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. MUSIC CREDITS: “Bike Sharing to Paradise” by Dan Bodan, YouTube Audio Library Luminous Rain by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100169 Artist: http://incompetech.com/ “English Country Garden” by Aaron Kenny, YouTube Audio Library

Doctor Hay whisks this city girl off to the English countryside for eccentric historical adventures, but doesn’t exactly tell me where we’re going…until we get there. A tale of friendship, railways, and funny clothes.

For the Everyday Victorian. FURTHER RESOURCES: The Keystone Guide to Jacket and Dress Cutting: https://archive.org/details/keystonejacketdr00heck/page/82 Bertha Banner’s Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking: https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=IhMlyt7IuGsC&printsec=frontcover&pg=GBS.PA9 Fine Times Watches: Alan Cartwright, owner; based in Derbyshire. http://www.instagram.com/finetimeswatches Brush braid footage courtesy of Olga (http://www.instagram.com/berolinensis) as found on the hem of an extant Edwardian skirt in her own collection. Cathy Hay’s skirt blog post: https://thepeacockdress.com/2018/11/clothing-your-true-self/ And see her Instagram feed for the progress updates: http://www.instagram.com/cathy.hay Foundations Revealed is an online corset and costume maker’s educational resource and community. Membership enrolment opens usually twice per year, so join the mailing list to find out when the next enrolment period begins if you are interested! https://us3.list-manage.com/subscribe? (Not sponsored, just useful.) MATERIALS USED: Wool: Ayazmoon Fabrics, NYC (c. 5 yds) Tarlatan: Regular weight (c. 6 yds). Takach Press, https://shop.takachpress.com/Tarlatan-p/tarlatan.htm Pocket cotton: stash cabbage Hem braid: Burnley & Trowbridge (5 yds) https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/WT2.aspx OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX)

A vlog of our visit to Audley End House and Gardens, ft. Mrs Crocombe being iconic. A hundred thousand million thanks to the wonderful folks at English Heritage and Audley End House and Gardens for welcoming us! Most Special Shoutouts to Gareth the contentwizard, Rebecca at tickets & info, and of course to Kathy for being a dream come true. For more information on English Heritage: https://www.english-heritage.org.uk/ (Thank you, English Heritage, for inviting us to come and visit!) Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Hana Dehart on Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/hana.dehart Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. MUSIC CREDITS: “English Country Garden” by Aaron Kenny, YouTube Audio Library “Wishful Thinking” by Dan Lebowitz, YouTube Audio Library

A Most Necessary Skirt Support for the Respectable Lady. SOURCES: Original Patent: http://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?PageNum=0&docid=00741184&IDKey=23707D14DC87%0D%0A&HomeUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fpatft.uspto.gov%2Fnetahtml%2FPTO%2Fpatimg.htm MATERIALS USED: Sheet cotton wadding: Sil Thread, NYC Waistband ribbon: M&J Trimming, NYC OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX) -French Curve: https://amzn.to/2RWzWVJ IMAGE CREDITS: References to knotting are all from Agnes Walker’s ‘Manual of Needlework and Cutting Out’, 1907. Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time.

Sleeves are only to be attempted in the presence of good company (and lots of cake).

USEFUL THINGS: The Keystone Guide to Jacket and Dress Cutting: https://archive.org/details/keystonejacketdr00heck/page/82 Bertha Banner’s Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking: https://play.google.com/books/reader?id=IhMlyt7IuGsC&printsec=frontcover&pg=GBS.PA9 Antique pocket watch and chain from Fine Times Watches: Alan Cartwright, owner; based in Derbyshire. http://www.instagram.com/finetimeswatches MATERIALS USED: Wool: Ayazmoon Fabrics, NYC (1/2 yd) Silesia: Bias Bespoke (1/2 yd) (https://www.biasbespoke.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=94&category_id=40) Tailor’s canvas: Steinlauf & Stoller, NYC (1/4 yd) Buttons: Daytona Trimming, NYC (6 ct) Synthetic baleen, 4mm x 1mm: Burnley & Trowbridge (https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/GB1.aspx) Ribbon casing: M&J Trimming, NYC (1 yd) Brown cotton thread: John Lewis Black silk thread (pad stitching): Sil Thread, NYC Black silk buttonhole twist: Sil Thread, NYC OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX) -French Curve: https://amzn.to/2RWzWVJ Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/ber

Actual thimble instructions: 07:47 - 10:48 (the rest is just nattering, ye have been warned) guinea pig content: 48:58 Things referenced: Beginning your historical costuming journey: https://web.archive.org/web/20191101040131/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIGwe... First Q&A: https://web.archive.org/web/20191101040131/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sF4i-... The School of Historical Dress: https://web.archive.org/web/20191101040131/http://www.instagram.com/theschoolofh... www.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk Linen thread: https://web.archive.org/web/20191101040131/https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/... Dress form: https://web.archive.org/web/20191101040131/https://theshopcompany.com/dress-form... Cathy Hay on how to find time to do stuff: https://web.archive.org/web/20191101040131/https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlxEe... Synthetic baleen: (US) https://web.archive.org/web/20191101040131/https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/... (Intl) https://web.archive.org/web/20191101040131/htt

Moste Special Thanks to my dear Cathy for the like 3 seconds of this video shot in her glorious sewing room (ft equally glorious iron) SOURCES: The Keystone Guide to Jacket and Dress Cutting: https://archive.org/details/keystonejacketdr00heck/page/32 MATERIALS USED: Wool tartan: Fabrics & Fabrics, NYC (approx 5 yd) Silesia lining: Bias Bespoke (approx. 3.5 yd) (https://www.biasbespoke.com/cart.php?target=product&product_id=94&category_id=40) Silk cape lining: Bazaar Fabrics, NYC (1 yd) Silk sleeve lining: Noelle (https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGfIQhkqB_CMTW7wVGYSz_A) Tailor’s canvas: Steinlauf & Stoller, NYC Red silk buttonhole twist: Sil Thread, NYC OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX) -Flexicurve: https://amzn.to/2DG9OvA -French Curve: https://amzn.to/2RWzWVJ Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. MUSIC CREDITS “The Forgotten Memories”

Possibly the most overly melodramatic project reveal, but hey. Teenage gothicvictorianlittrash Bernadette is very pleased. Fabric Sources: Red changeable organza: stash (approx 4 yd, 120” wide) Black beaded net: Diana Fabrics, NYC (1 yd) White silk underskirt: Fabrics Garden, NYC (3 yd) White silk chiffon: Fabrics Garden, NYC (3 yd) Black cord: Daytona Trimming, NYC (3 yd) Black twill tape: Daytona Trimming, NYC (3 yd) Artstuff: (Please know that these are affiliate links) Cold press watercolor paper: https://amzn.to/2Fzl7qa Sable watercolor brushes (#2, #10, and #0 used here): https://amzn.to/2DfgXBt Watercolor palette: https://amzn.to/2FwRpSH Windsor & Newton Gouache for opacity (Spectrum red, Alizarin crimson, zinc white): -Starter pack: https://amzn.to/2SYmqSJ -More advanced pack: https://amzn.to/2Fv3IyU -(Gouache is mega expensive so I usually just buy the tubes individually as needed from my local art supply shop and have been collecting colors for years, but the starter pack (or even just a basic R/Y/B, black and white) should be all you need to start off. I can tell you from experience that settling for cheaper brands is *not* worth it as the difference in paint quality is significant. W&N paints are water soluble and so can be re-wetted and used again once dried, while most others dry into plastic and cannot be reused. This also means that the paint behaves differently on the paper during use: water soluble paints should be able to be reworked after drying, but the cheaper qualities can’t do that. I shall stop pontificating about paints now. Carry on.) Masking fluid: https://amzn.to/2SU4Q22 Textured with black tea granules (Tetley’s, if you must know.) Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/berna

This is not intended as an educational dressing video, but is simply meant to showcase the garments I constructed specifically for the c. 1895 Lady Sherlock project. Shoes, stockings, collar, petticoat, and blouse are modern reproductions; the latter two are not close historical reproductions. A more correct dressing sequence for an 1890s crime-solving lady would include: Stockings (gartered below the knee or suspended from the corset) Shoes Combinations (alternatively a separate chemise and pair of drawers) Corset Bustle pad Corset cover (omitted from Lady Sherlock for time) Petticoat Shirt-waist (with detachable starched collar) Skirt Waistcoat Overcoat Sundry such deerstalker hats, pocket watches, pipes, &c. In other news, prints of the Lady Sherlock sketch are now available! https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop Cinematography by Dani Banner (http://www.instagram.com/dani_banner) Shot on the Canon G7X: https://amzn.to/2SkmGM4 (this is an affiliate link) Pocket watch and chain from the lovely Alan of Fine Times Watches, http://www.instagram.com/finetimeswatches Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. Music: “Nocturnal Waltz” Johannes Bornlöf, Epidemicsound.com “Underlying Truth” Howard Harper-Barnes, Epidemicsound.com

To take advantage of the Amazon Prime offer and sundry such Audible stuffs, visit https://www.audible.com/bernadette, or text ‘bernadette’ to 500 500. Also, yes! Prints of Red Death are now available on the Redbubble: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop Books/authors mentioned (this is not part of the audible campaign, but I know ye’re always asking me for bookstuffs so here are some nonfiction favorites!): Ruth Goodman, for obvious reasons: -How to Be a Victorian -How to Behave Badly in Victorian England -How to be a Tudor Ian Mortimer, basically writing history books in the style of travel guides and I am here for it: -The Time Traveller’s Guide to Medieval Britain -The Time Traveller’s Guide to Elizabethan England -The Time Traveller’s Guide to Restoration Britain Bill Bryson, particular favorites including: -Notes from a Small Island -I’m a Stranger Here Myself -The Road to Little Dribbling (Read them in this order for the best effect) Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. Music Credits: “Etude No 1 For String Quartet” by Peter Sandberg, epidemicsound.com “Contemporary Confusion” by Cody High, epidemicsound.com “Chary” by Cody High, epidemicsound.com “Counting the Days” by Cody High, epidemicsound.com “The Forgotten Memories” Luella Gren, Epidemicsound.com

For 10% off your first Squarespace website or domain, visit https://www.squarespace.com/bernadettebanner and use my Coupon Code BERNADETTEBANNER Prints of this rendering will be available in my Etsy shop with the release of the final process video! FURTHER READING: For more information on the history and origin of the chemise à la reine, see Jane Ashelford’s article “‘Colonial livery’ and the chemise à la reine, 1779-1784’ published in “Costume: The Journal of the Costume Society” Volume 52, Number 2 (pages 217-239), September 2018. SOURCES: White cotton lawn: Fabrics Garden 39th St Red silk satin: Fabrics Garden, 39th St Lace on sale: Mokuba, 38th St Artstuff: (Please know that these are affiliate links) Cold press watercolor paper: https://amzn.to/2Fzl7qa Sable watercolor brushes (#2, #10, and #0 used here): https://amzn.to/2DfgXBt Watercolor palette: https://amzn.to/2FwRpSH Masking fluid: https://amzn.to/2SU4Q22 Textured with black tea granules (Tetley’s, if you must know.) Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. IMAGE CREDITS: 1. [Pinterest, unaccredited] Chemise a la Reine, c. 1785-1789. Original in the Musée de la Toile de Jouy (https://www.pinterest.com/pin/66217056992025572/?lp=true) 2. “Marie Antoinette in a Chemise Dress” Elisabeth Louise Vigée LeBrun, 1783. The Metropolitan Museum of Art (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/656930) 3. Chemise, c. 1780. Metropolitan Museum of Art https://www.metmuseum.org/art/coll

For 10% off your first Squarespace website or domain, visit https://www.squarespace.com/bernadettebanner and use my Coupon Code BERNADETTEBANNER The Umbrella Lady is on Instagram! http://www.instagram.com/the_umbrella_lady Flea Markets: Chelsea Flea 25th bt 6th & Broadway Saturdays and Sundays, 6:30AM - 7PM, year-round (weather permitting) http://www.annexmarkets.com/chelsea-flea-market East 67th St Market Sat 6AM - 5PM East 67th St bt 1st and York Brooklyn Flea Sundays, 10AM - 5PM 80 Pearl St http://brooklynflea.com/markets/dumbo Grand Bazaar Sundays, 10AM - 5:30PM, year-round 77th & Columbus https://grandbazaarnyc.org/ Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. MUSIC CREDITS: "Brooklyn Burgers" by Golden Age Radio, epidemicsound.com "Our New Victrola" by Golden Age Radio, epidemicsound.com "Sophisticated Lady" by Golden Age Radio, epidemicsound.com "Sing it Loud" by Golden Age Radio, epidemicsound.com

There’s no such thing as talent. (More on this from Cathy: https://youtu.be/XYdgVAlnCAQ) MATERIALS USED:(Please know that these are affiliate links) Cold press watercolor paper: https://amzn.to/2Fzl7qa Sable watercolor brushes (no. 4 & no. 10 used here): https://amzn.to/2DfgXBt Watercolor palette: https://amzn.to/2FwRpSH Windsor & Newton Gouache for opacity (Spectrum red, Alizarin crimson, zinc white): -Starter pack: https://amzn.to/2SYmqSJ -More advanced pack: https://amzn.to/2Fv3IyU -(Gouache is mega expensive so I usually just buy the tubes individually as needed from my local art supply shop and have been collecting colors for years, but the starter pack (or even just a basic R/Y/B, black and white) should be all you need to start off. I can tell you from experience that settling for cheaper brands is *not* worth it as the difference in paint quality is significant. W&N paints are water soluble and so can be re-wetted and used again once dried, while most others dry into plastic and cannot be reused. This also means that the paint behaves differently on the paper during use: water soluble paints should be able to be reworked after drying, but the cheaper qualities can’t do that. I shall stop pontificating about paints now. Carry on.) Masking fluid: https://amzn.to/2SU4Q22 Textured with black tea granules (Tetley’s, if you must know.) Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. IMAGE CREDITS: “Reverend Robert Walker (1755 - 1808) Skating on D

For 10% off your first Squarespace website or domain, visit https://www.squarespace.com/bernadettebanner and use my Coupon Code BERNADETTEBANNER An example of a tailor using not-good-practicely-long thread can be found on page 14 of “17th Century Men’s Dress Patterns” https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/17th-century-menandapos-andapos-s-dress-patterns-146468.html Burnley & Trowbridge thread (not sponsored): https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/linenthread.aspx (They sell beeswax too!) And their Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCySy8zO2XCnsSM1STJc0r6A Some tools that may be useful, if you don’t already have:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -or unicorn snips, if you prefer: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX) Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. Music: “Alabaster” by Arden Forest, epidemicsound.com “The Mercy of the Wind” Million Eyes, Epidemicsound.com “Follow Hidden Paths” by David Celeste, epidemicsound.com “Memories of the Green Valley” by Lars Meyer, epidemicsound.com

Lauren Stowell and Abby Cox of American Duchess show us how to achieve the “ski slope” hair style, as featured in their latest publication on 18th century beauty: https://amzn.to/30aWlr6 They’re also doing stuff here on the YouTubes! https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWLNaVKBl4EskUQUXWRZkew Also, my most favo(u)rite Londoners. https://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-shoes-boots/londoner-edwardian-oxfords-cherry More on the National Arts Club: https://www.nationalartsclub.org/Default.aspx?p=DynamicModule&PageId=399835&ssid=323191&vnf=1 Cheyney McKnight, Not Your Momma’s History: https://www.instagram.com/notyourmommashistory/ Who is also on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCEVpwIpE7PpD2rt1SGtAkJw Dandy Wellington, jazz performer, bonnet master: https://www.instagram.com/dandywellington/ Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that’s more your thing: https://ko-fi.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. Image credits: “Marie Antoinette in a Chemise Dress” Elisabeth Louise Vigée LeBrun, 1783. The Metropolitan Museum of Art (https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/656930) Music Credits: "Brooklyn Burgers" by Golden Age Radio, epidemicsound.com

For 10% off your first Squarespace website or domain, visit https://www.squarespace.com/bernadettebanner and use my Coupon Code BERNADETTEBANNER Video on designing this dress: https://youtu.be/HW2WF5Lx3YI My shiny new website: bernadettebanner.co.uk (so, funny story, the mysterious entity that purchased but has not done anything with bernadettebanner.com did so a mysterious week after this channel blew up last year, so we get to be British now and I'm kind of cool with that.) EPIC SHEARS OF DESTINY (yes this is an affiliate link): https://amzn.to/2mJywE1 (I think these link to US Amazon and this specific link may not be available internationally, but do try opening your country's Amazon corner and searching 'dagger scissors'--hopefully they will come up!) MATERIALS USED: Cotton lawn: Fabrics Garden, NYC (8yd) Cotton sateen: H&M Fabrics, NYC (2yd) 1/4” cotton tape: Mokuba (approx. 27 yd) Machine thread was polyester Hand sewing thread was 2-ply fine linen: Burnley & Trowbridge (https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/linenthread.aspx) OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX) -French Curve: https://amzn.to/2RWzWVJ Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Ko-Fi, if that

Footnotes and more info below. Quick note for those not aware, YES: it is perfectly safe to handle extant objects with bare hands. In fact, many conservators are beginning to favor handling lightly with clean, dry hands rather than with gloves, as the sense of touch promotes greater delicacy in handling. All study day footage used with permission from Leicestershire County Council Collections. For more information on the Leicestershire County Council Museum and the Symington Collection: https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=11963&WINID=1570329719116 https://www.instagram.com/leicestershire_collections/ Footnotes: 1. Background information on the Symington company from a recording of a talk given by Sarah Nicol, curator at the Symington Collection. Additional information found at https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/view-item?i=18697&WINID=1570648095835 2. Symington patterns online: https://imageleicestershire.org.uk/index.php?a=ViewItem&key=SXsiTiI6MTI0LCJQIjp7InZhbHVlIjoic3ltaW5ndG9uIHBhdHRlcm5zIiwib3BlcmF0b3IiOiIxIiwiZnV6enlQcmVmaXhMZW5ndGgiOiI0IiwiZnV6enlNaW5TaW1pbGFyaXR5IjowLjcsIm1heFN1Z2dlc3Rpb25zIjoiNCIsImFsd2F5c1N1Z2dlc3QiOm51bGx9fQ&pg=5&WINID=1570755461573#HleNmyPYfKwAAAFtnvHjbA/18697 3. Bra patent: https://patents.google.com/patent/US1115674 4. “No heavy steels”: http://bit.ly/2Na2LNU Gale Document Number: GALE|ZDWNMO134822583 5. Modern medical studies: Valerie Steele, “The Corset: A Cultural History”, 2003. (Page 72) 6. “Too much cording”, confirmed by Jill Salen via email correspondence, 7th October 2019. The book, “Corsets: Historical Patterns and Techniques” by Jill Salen can be purchased at https://www.amazon.com/Corsets-Historical-Techniques-Jill-Salen/dp/0896762610 7. Kenna’s waist measurement database: https://sewingwithkenna.wordpress.com/2019/07/31/waist-measurements-resource-25/ (Kenna’s also on Instagram, https://www.instagram.com/houkakyou/) I’ll be dumping all the raw study day footage for all tiers over on Pat

Footnotes and more info below. Quick note for those not aware, YES: it is perfectly safe to handle extant objects with bare hands. In fact, many conservators are beginning to favor handling lightly with clean, dry hands rather than with gloves, as the sense of touch promotes greater delicacy in handling.

Annual turnip carving ft a lot of nattering that probably c. 3 people will be interested in, but enjoy!

Ft. my attempts to re-draw them But Better. Auctions are happening until 07:00 AM EDT on Friday, 1 November 2019: https://ebay.to/32Lkfqm PRINTS: Due to lots of interest, I have created some preorder listings for prints of the doodles: https://etsy.me/2MNQ9wJ FOOTNOTES 1. “A literal armful of skirt”: Portrait of Giovanni(?) Arnolfini and his Wife by Jan van Eyck, 1434 http://bit.ly/33ZToHd 2. 16th century split front skirts and square neckline, for comparison: “Portrait of Katherine Parr”, c. 1545 http://bit.ly/2BSUCs5 3. Examples of gowns cut in long panels: from “Le Livre des faiz monseigneur saint Loys, composé à la requête du cardinal de Bourbon et de la duchesse de Bourbonnois” (p. 195), 1401 - 1500 http://bit.ly/2WcpWLu 4. Exceedingly Extra sleeves: “Saint George Slaying the Dragon” by Jost Haller, c. 1450. Unterlinden Museum. Digital image from Wikimedia Commons. http://bit.ly/2JksLFe 5. Hoods: “Le Livre des faiz monseigneur saint Loys, composé à la requête du cardinal de Bourbon et de la duchesse de Bourbonnois” (p. 205), 1401 - 1500 http://bit.ly/33Ya7e6 6. Cap? Fillet? from “Le Livre des faiz monseigneur saint Loys, composé à la requête du cardinal de Bourbon et de la duchesse de Bourbonnois” (p. 211), 1401 - 1500 http://bit.ly/33ZI0Lx 7. French farthingale: “Ballet des fées des forêts de Saint-Germain – Entrée des Esperculates” Daneil Rabel, 1626 http://bit.ly/31M3dal 8. Queen Elizabeth I effigy bodies: “Corset from Elizabeth I's wax effigy 1603” http://bit.ly/369ezJ5 9. “The Merchant Taylors”, 1749. The British Museum http://bit.ly/2JiYR42 Portals to Other Realms Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Costume rendering prints: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for commissions are not considered at this ti

Cosy Victorian Cottage in the Middle of New York City is my aesthetic, and all my Village Witch dreams are coming true. The Staymaker's Tale: https://shop.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/product-category/books/ "Noelle": https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGfIQhkqB_CMTW7wVGYSz_A "Cathy": https://www.youtube.com/cathyhay Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. MUSIC "Innocent Games" by David Celeste, epidemicsound.com “Drops of Rain” by Cody High, epidemicsound.com "Early Footsteps" by Jon Björk, epidemicsound.com “Nocturnal Waltz” Johannes Bornlöf, epidemicsound.com "Lens Flare 3" by Peter Sandberg, epidemicsound.com "Sowing the Summer Barley" by Francis Wells, epidemicsound.com "Reconcile" by Peter Sandberg, epidemicsound.com "Supine" by Peter Sandberg, epidemicsound.com

I mentioned a few wonderful ethical/slow fashion brands and small artists, which you should definitely go check out! Also leave some of your faves (or yourself!) below, because hurrah for excellent craftsfolk. :) Fancy Fairy Wings & Things https://www.fancyfairy.com/ IG https://www.instagram.com/fancyfairyangela/ YT https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxGiUjep8KiihvHldRousPA The blog post explaining the situation: https://www.fancyfairy.com/news/2019/11/4/kylie-jenners-fairy-wings-infringe-on-my-copyright-protected-kira-wings-design Vanyanis www.vanyanis.com IG https://www.instagram.com/vanyanis/ I didn’t directly mention them, but one of the brands most heavily stolen from by the same website was Armstreet; I actually have several pieces from them and can personally recommend! www.armstreet.com IG https://www.instagram.com/armstreetcom/ Not mentioned, but as always a shout to my faves at American Duchess, small-scale historical reproduction footwear: www.americanduchess.com IG https://www.instagram.com/americanduchess/ YT https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWLNaVKBl4EskUQUXWRZkew Barrage of Footnotes (or: some interesting reads on the impacts of fast fashion): [1] Original gown reference: “Saint George Slaying the Dragon” by Jost Haller, c. 1450. Unterlinden Museum. Digital image from Wikimedia Commons. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Jost_Haller_- [2] http://www.europarl.europa.eu/RegData/etudes/BRIE/2019/633143/EPRS_BRI(2019)633143_EN.pdf [3] https://unfccc.int/news/un-helps-fashion-industry-shift-to-low-carbon [4] https://www.planetaid.org/blog/lessening-the-harmful-effects-of-the-clothing-industry [5] https://nerc.org/news-and-updates/blog/nerc-blog/2018/01/02/lets-take-on-industry-polluter-2 [6] https://www.abc.net.au/news/science/2018-04-03/fashion-environmental-impact-of-your-favourite-textiles/9382382 [7] https://quantis-intl.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/06/measuringfashion_globalimpactstudy_quantis_2018.pdf [8] https

Updates on the reconstruction process will be happening over on Cathy's channel

No work space is complete without smol floof-potatoes. Links to stuff mentioned: Tarlatan: https://shop.takachpress.com/Tarlatan-p/tarlatan.htm Etsy shop for A2 1-inch grid paper: https://www.etsy.com/listing/628201302/a2-a0-imperial-grid-graph-paper-multiple?ref=shop_home_active_4 The Staymaker’s Tale: https://shop.theschoolofhistoricaldress.org.uk/product-category/books/ Helpful tools: (Please note that these are affiliate links) -Clear 18-inch ruler: https://amzn.to/2DIdRrh -Steel-headed straight pins: https://amzn.to/2ByJUaQ -Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: https://amzn.to/2Sd76R7 -My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: https://amzn.to/2SaZEGf -Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): https://amzn.to/2DXkUft -Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: https://amzn.to/2zu9vzY -(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: https://amzn.to/2KvXGgX) -Large Newsprint Pad: https://amzn.to/2QF7uHQ -Actual pattern paper: https://amzn.to/2DjwEbj -Flexicurve: https://amzn.to/2DG9OvA -French Curve: https://amzn.to/2RWzWVJ -Filming camera (Canon EOS M50): https://amzn.to/2D1Qsyz -Vlogging camera (Canon G7X Mark II): https://amzn.to/2SkmGM4 -iPhone-sized Teleprompter: https://amzn.to/2OahY3l Footnotes: 1. https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/quiringh-van-brekelenkam-interior-of-a-tailors-shop 2. https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/object/721993.html 3. https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/art/news/national-portrait-gallery-unveils-earliest-known-portrait-of-a-guinea-pig-8776640.html Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Prints of costume renderings: https://www.redbubble.c

So, it turns out most wrapping paper isn’t recyclable. Oh, look, another use for all that scrap cabbage we sewingfolk tend to have lying around in copious excess! See below for resource info. Gray Line Linen: http://www.graylinelinen.com/ Burnley & Trowbridge: https://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/ Renaissance Fabrics: https://www.renaissancefabrics.net/ Marika’s constellation gown, part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cmy_ziOGTo0 Portals to Other Realms: Instagram, for real-time progress: http://www.instagram.com/bernadettebanner (@bernadettebanner) Patreon, for more vloggish and bloggish content: https://www.patreon.com/bernadettebanner Prints & merch of design sketches: https://www.redbubble.com/people/bertiebanner/shop For business enquiries, please contact my representation at: bernadette@helmtalentgroup.com Requests for personal dressmaking commissions are not considered at this time. MUSIC: “Tis the Season” by Nate Blaze. YouTube Audio Library FairyTale Waltz by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100232 Artist: http://incompetech.com/ “Traveling Lights” by Francis Wells, epidemicsound.com “Storytellers” by Francis Wells, epidemicsound.com “Tranquility Sphere” by Francis Wells, epidemicsound.com “In This Sphere” by Francis Wells, epidemicsound.com “All Those Letters” by Francis Wells, epidemicsound.com

If you need some background on the “Secret Santa” tradition and rules: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secret_Santa The full playlist of CosTube gift exchanges! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WmOa9sZb75Q&list=PLYUNeRZ5nK-ofZWHemAg5ouegwxoVr0bA Nikki’s channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/leeamster/featured The hair stick from Talismana Designs: https://www.etsy.com/listing/725214666/fairy-hair-stick-carved-wood-mushroom Allllll of the participating CosTubers! Alicia Estelle https://www.youtube.com/user/Tvtjtee American Duchess https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCWLNaVKBl4EskUQUXWRZkew Bella maes designs https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCM4lcphngBDu1EbZgWMEMDg Bernadette banner https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSHtaUm-FjUps090S7crO4Q Caroline DAmbrosio Designs https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFFS3W6JU5wmDwXRZ6qKQlQ Cathy hay https://www.youtube.com/user/sapphorama Cat’s costumery https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCntrFUJK5ZesDFO1RD_eWvA Costuming drama https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCGfIQhkqB_CMTW7wVGYSz_A Dames a la mode https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCU-6G2XW_aJh6_FkoiI-T1Q Empress of buttons https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0GfrNemVYsZsqaXg5ry9qw Enchanted rosé costumes https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTCC06epSupQR7Fc_a7dBag Gilbert Dolthalion https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCM8z5Fa_IfW2Qbq7bZ4V91g Hat to hem https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCSYwp5mwlzITsnthXdKyz_Q Historical Belle https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTMjDj-NTuyHaNe4lheW4yg Jalea ward https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDi6F1iS_zXRRMzqySE6t2A Juul Thijssen https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUEUZd8F_xv9-Q3T9PG405A Karolina zebrowska https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNwZIGnHkzy6KpHPQtserzQ Lee-am https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCeyfbvXfrpcGCri2jIhUAPQ Marlene pein https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCFCe4e1NFc5xk6LoqVEFbAA Morgan donner https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXidSGLe42axucCsEigBA-Q Pinsent Tailoring https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHcpUHrm2OUIQAMshEq-u9Q P