Journeys in Japan

Nakasendo was the old mountain road connecting Edo, today's Tokyo, to Kyoto. The 530-kilometer stretch of road was dotted with 69 post towns. Our reporter, JJ, walks along a preserved section of the Nakasendo and stops at Tsumago, a beautifully restored post town. He spends the night at a venerable inn and meets people who treasure a traditional way of life. This edition of journeys in japan features a walk back in time along an Edo era road.

The era of the samurai in Japan ended in 1868 with the Meiji Restoration, marking the start of the country's modernization. One of the powerful forces in this movement was the Satsuma domain - the area now known as Kagoshima. The warriors of Satsuma were renowned for their fierceness as fighters. That samurai spirit still lives on in modern-day Kagoshima. Kagoshima lies at the southern tip of Kyushu. It has a mild climate year-round, with warmer average temperatures than most other parts of Japan. It's a volcanic area, with many active volcanoes and abundant hot springs. The city of Kagoshima has been nicknamed the "Naples of the East" because both cities have bayside locations and have active volcanoes close-by. In fact, Kagoshima City and Naples actually have a sister-city tie-up.

In this journeys in japan, Gow takes a trip to Mikuni-cho of Sakai City, Fukui Prefecture, in search of snow crabs, the king of winter delicacies. Mikuni is famous for its delicious fresh crabs, being close to good fishing grounds. When the snow crab fishing season starts on November 6, many people travel great distances to Mikuni specifically for the crabs. Gow first has a taste of boiled crab at one of the restaurants on the busy shopping street, and is amazed at how delicious it is, like something she's never tasted before. Then, at an old ryokan inn, acclaimed for serving top-class crab dishes, she is treated with crab sashimi and grilled crab. She also wanders through the old Mikuni townscape and gets to meet the local people to enjoy a delightful, heart-warming time.

Since ancient times, people in Japan have produced a form of ink known as sumi, which is used for calligraphy and traditional ink wash painting. Prepared in the form of ink sticks, sumi has to be diluted in water to create a black liquid. Until about 100 years ago, sumi was one of the most popular items sold at stationery stores. Today, ink sticks are rarely used in everyday life, but they are an essential aspect of traditional calligraphy. Shodo, the art of writing kanji characters with sumi ink, remains very popular. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, John Gathright travels to Suzuka, in Mie Prefecture, where sumi has been produced for centuries. He meets a traditional ink-stick master craftsman and discovers the vibrant art of calligraphy.

The city of Hakodate, on the southern tip of Hokkaido, attracts as many as 4 million visitors each year, drawn by its historic charm, the beautiful night views and the superb seafood. It is especially magical in winter, when it is lit by extra illuminations. Photographer Kit Pancoast Nagamura discovers the beauty and flavors that can only be found in Hakodate in mid-winter. She dines on codfish, one of the seasonal specialties. She goes horseback riding in a snow-covered national park. And she meets with some of the people who call this beautiful city home.

Naruko Onsen, in Miyagi Prefecture, is located in the foothills of the Ou Mountains. With a history of more than a thousand years, the Naruko Onsen hot springs have long offered a respite to weary visitors, some who take advantage of its toji "long-stay" resorts. The hamlet is also famous for its traditional kokeshi dolls. These dolls were originally created during the Edo era (1603-1868) by wood craftsmen, as souvenirs for the spa visitors who stayed during the winter off-season. Initially serving as children's toys, today they are prized by people of all ages and nationalities. On her journey, Akane Nakajima experiences making her own kokeshi doll using traditional methods. She learns about Japan's hot spring culture and meets warm local people, listening to their thoughts and enjoying their Tohoku hospitality.

The Sanriku coast of northeastern Japan was one of the areas worst hit by the earthquake and tsunami of March 11, 2011. Among the volunteers who rushed to help the people in the disaster zone, there were many from other countries. Dean Newcombe, from the U.K., lives in Tokyo. Just 1 month after the earthquake, he made his way to Ishinomaki (Miyagi Pref.), together with some friends. He spent 9 months there, taking part in volunteer activities. On this episode of Journeys in Japan, Dean returns to the Ishinomaki area to see what daily life is like, 4 years after the disaster. He goes out with local fishermen in their boat, to find out first-hand about their work and lives. And he visits some of the people with whom he formed deep friendships while he was volunteering.

Photographer Peter Skov hikes up to the snow-capped summit of Mt. Miyanoura (1,936 meters), the highest peak in Yaksuhima—and even Kyushu—enjoying magnificent nature along the way. He also meets with people who are behind protecting the island's precious habitat. As Peter treks through deep snow, and primeval forest, he feels the magic of Yakushima.

Lake Biwa, Japan's largest freshwater lake, is located in the middle of the Japanese archipelago. Since ancient times, the expansive body of water has spawned myths and legends. British model and social entrepreneur, Dean Newcombe, spends time in a lakeside village. He discovers local wisdom for water sustainability that dates back more than two thousand years and meets residents who live in harmony with nature. Lake Biwa also attracts water sports enthusiasts. Dean gets in the water to try out some popular marine activities. At the end of his journey, he participates in Buddhist practices at Hieizan Enryakuji, the head temple of the Tendai sect. The experience gives him the chance to pause and reflect on himself.

Himeji Castle, in Hyogo Prefecture, just reopened after an extensive renovation.Its dazzling white appearance has been fully restored. On Journeys in Japan, radio DJ Chris Glenn, who has visited more than 400 castles and ruins, explores the secrets hidden within the imposing fortress. Later he tastes thin, pure white somen noodles and encounters traditional handicrafts made of supple white leather. He meets with craftsmen who take great pride in producing their white leather material and wares

In Awaji Island, John and Ruadh Moore explore the farms, food and traditional culture. In ancient times, Awaji Island (Awaji-shima in Japanese) was known as Miketsu-kuni, a land that provided food to the imperial court. To this day, it is renowned for its fertile land and abundant seafood. John Moore lives in Kochi Prefecture, where he works on projects to help preserve traditional Japanese agricultural techniques for future generations. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, John visits Awaji with his daughter, Ruadh. They meet a local farmer, visit a company making eco-friendly roof tiles and enjoy a meal at a restaurant that focuses on seasonal ingredients from the surrounding land and sea. They also watch a traditional performing art that has been passed down for five centuries, and come to understand the importance of keeping alive the island's traditional culture.

The Shonan area lies on the coast of Sagami Bay in Kanagawa Prefecture, just to the south of Tokyo. Since ancient times, fishermen have lived along this coast, and there are still many fishing ports to be found. From the late 19th century, the area became a popular location for city people to set up holiday villas. And since the 1970s, it has become a center for surfing and youth culture. Evan Burkosky is from Canada. He has been surfing for 20 years. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Evan visits the Shonan area. He rides the waves, he goes out with fishermen, and he gets to taste the good life, down on the coast

Contemporary dancer Alessandra Lupi visits Sado Island to study the powerful Onidaiko demon dance. The traditional performing art is offered to the gods to pray for peace and abundant harvests. Alessandra also experiences the traditional lifestyle of the region. She stays in a charming inn converted from an old home, tries rice farming and meets apprentices of Kodo, the renowned drumming ensemble. During her journey, she comes to feel how closely the Onidaiko performing art is connected to the local way of life. On the last day of her journey, Alessandra is bestowed with an honor that is most unexpected…

The Northern Alps range is often called "the roof of Japan." It is an area of great scenic beauty, offering superb views and unspoiled natural landscapes. Its highest peak is Mt. Hotaka, rising 3,190 meters above sea level, which stands at the heart of a national park that is the habitat for many species of wild animals, including the Japanese macaque. Kamikochi is the gateway to the mountain. It is a popular destination for hikers and other visitors. It was discovered by Walter Weston, a British missionary to Japan, who popularized recreational climbing in the nearby mountains in the late 19th century. As the birthplace of modern alpinism in Japan, this area remains a major center for sports climbing. On this edition of "Journeys in Japan," Cveto Podlogar sets off to climb to the snow-clad peak of Mt. Hotaka. He enjoys spectacular scenery during the day and skies ablaze with stars at night. He also stays at lodges along the way and talks with people deeply rooted in their love of climbing and the magnificent mountain. Cveto Podlogar is an experienced climber and an international mountain guide certified by the UIGM and officially recognized by the Alpine Guide Society of Japan.

Hokkaido—the northernmost island of Japan—is known for its vast expanse of land and unspoiled nature. American shakuhachi player, Bruce Huebner, visits in early summer when the air is still crisp. He is on a journey to discover the culture of the Ainu, an indigenous people who have lived in Hokkaido for centuries. Suffering long years of discrimination and forced assimilation, their culture was in danger of vanishing. Now, they are reclaiming their customs and reinventing themselves.

Morioka developed as a castle town, the seat of the powerful Nanbu clan during the Edo Period [17th-19th centuries]. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Dean Newcombe visits a farmhouse where the horse is treated almost like a member of the family. He discovers the distinctive culture that has grown up from this close connection with horses.

Since ancient times, Japanese have developed clever methods for keeping cool in summertime by using nature and the five senses. It's called noryo. On this trip, Deborah Ten visits Odawara and the Izu Peninsula, which are famous resort areas close to Tokyo. She gets acquainted with traditional wisdom and aesthetics to keep cool on hot summer days. She tastes chilled tokoroten seaweed noodles, hears wind chimes, listens to a stream outside her room in a traditional inn, touches cooling water, and sees magical dragonflies Deborah, who grew up in Malaysia, discovers old ways to celebrate summer.

The Shakotan Peninsula lies on the west coast of Hokkaido, jutting out into the Sea of Japan. Its rugged coastline is lined with steep cliffs eroded by the waves. Many parts of this scenic peninsula have been designated as part of the Niseko-Shakotan-Otaru Kaigan Quasi-National Park. US radio journalist John Matthews discovers the peninsula both on land and by sea. He rides through lush birch woods on his bicycle, and then goes out on a sea kayak to view the dynamic geology of the cliffs. He also explores below the surface, snorkeling in the beautiful sea known for its "Shakotan blue" color. He is welcomed by a family of fishermen, who have lived off the bounty of the sea for several generations. He also meets with a group of divers who have been working in cooperation with the fishermen to protect and restore the seabed and its complex ecosystem.

The town of Biei lies in the heart of Hokkaido, cradled by the magnificent peaks of Mount Tokachi. Surrounded by a colorful patchwork of fields and woodlands, it boasts an idyllic scenery that draws visitors from near and far. The patchwork effect is created by the colors of the various crops — potato, wheat, soybeans and the other plants grown here each season. Over the years, many people have come to Biei to photograph this enchanting landscape. Sebastian Angel is a professional photographer from Colombia, who is keen to capture the scenery of Biei. He explores the area and meets the people living there, from well-established farmers to newcomers who have moved there recently. He also gets to understand what makes this areas so fascinating to photographers

The mountainous Kii Hanto is Japan's largest peninsula. It holds sacred places of faiths, including Shintoism, Buddhism, and Shugendo mountain ascetism. In 2004, three sacred sites in the Kii Peninsula and pilgrimage routes linking these to the ancient capitals of Nara and Kyoto were listed collectively as a World Heritage site. Our traveler is professional shakuhachi flute player, John Kaizan Neptune. He enjoys trekking along one of the Kumano Kodo Pilgrimage Routes and meets residents of the sacred land. On his journey through majestic scenery, John Kaizan Neptune learns the wisdom of the Japanese who have strong ties with nature.

Kikaijima is a coral island in the far south of Kagoshima Prefecture, about 1,300 kilometers from Tokyo. It has a circumference of 48.6 kilometers and a population of about 7,200. Surrounded by cobalt-blue sea filled with colorful coral, the island boasts a rich natural environment, with trees that are several hundred years old. Because no major resorts have been developed on Kikaijima, it remains quite unspoiled. And the slow, natural pace of life seems little changed from the old days. On this edition of Journey in Japan, actress/musician Ananda Jacobs explores the island, meets the people and starts to discover the secret of their contentment.

Uwajima is a traditional castle town in Ehime Prefecture. The people there have a long tradition of bullfighting. Huge bulls weighing about a ton battle each other for supremacy in the ring. Close bonds develop between the people and their bulls. Kyle Card meets the local people and discovers their passion for bullfighting.

The Nebuta Festival attracts some three million visitors to Aomori City every August. Nebuta are giant lantern floats measuring five meters high and nine meters wide. Michael Rivas, who’s from Hawaii, discovers the Nebuta Festival. He gets up close to the huge floats and also dances in the parade with people he meets in Aomori.

The town of Daigo is in northwestern Ibaraki Prefecture, about 130 kilometers north of Tokyo. This attractive rural area is easily accessible from Tokyo, but preserves a traditional lifestyle based on sustainable farming and fishing. The program casts light on the little-known town of Daigo and its cultural attractions.

Kameyama lies in the north of Mie Prefecture. In the past, it had great strategic importance, as it lay on the Tokaido, the main highway connecting eastern and western Japan. Three old post towns are located within the city, and visitors can find many reminders of the past. Estella Mak explores these post towns, where the past has been preserved to the present day.

Iiyama City, located in northern Nagano Prefecture, is known for its beautiful nature and distinct four seasons. With more than 20 Buddhist temples, the area is also known the "Snow Country's Little Kyoto." The atmospheric has many shops dealing the region's traditional Buddhist altars called "Iiyama Butsudan." It also has excellent museums.

About 145 years ago, apple tree saplings were imported to Japan and distributed around the country. John Moore travels to Tsugaru during the apple harvest, to meet the local people whose lives are so deeply entwined with the fruit.

Mt. Tsurugi in Toyama Prefecture is one of the most impressive peaks in Japan's Northern Alps range, rising to a height of 2,999 meters. Because of its jagged appearance it is often called the "Palace of Crags". Although modern alpinism was introduced in the late Meiji period (1868-1912), Tsurugi was the last of Japan's major mountains to be climbed. It is still considered the hardest. Cveto Podlogar is a professional mountain guide who has scaled numerous peaks around the world. To reach the top of Mt. Tsurugi, he begins by following the course of the Kurobe River, first by train and then on foot. The Kurobe Gorge Railway was originally built for the construction of a hydroelectric power plant. And the Horizontal Track was cut into the precipitous cliff face. His route continues via Sennin-ike, a pond offering views of Mt. Tsurugi, across a glacier, and then along a steep, rocky ridge. Along the way, he comes across tunnels dug in the rock face, and discovers the remains of an old molybdenum mine at an altitude of almost 3,000 meters. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Cveto leads the way through beautiful autumnal scenery. He explores sites that bear testimony to Japan's modern industrial history. And he overcomes setbacks to finally scale the "Palace of Crags" — the summit of Mt. Tsurugi.

The Iya Valley is a land of legends hidden in Tokushima Prefecture, deep in the heart of Shikoku. Surrounded by mountains rising to over 1,000 meters, it is a remote Shangri-la that was cut off from outside world for centuries. This gives it a mysterious feeling that is unique in Japan. British fashion model Sapphira travels down mountain valleys of jade green. She crosses a suspension bridge made of wood and vines dating back to the legendary times of samurai warriors. She finds herself in a community where the residents are outnumbered by hundreds of life-size dolls. And she discovers villages with friendly people who treasure their traditional way of life. On this edition of Journeys in Japan, Sapphira makes her way deep into the mountains to Iya, and finds herself in a world of mystery and legends.

The Takayama Festival, in autumn, is held annually on October 9th and 10th. The stars of the festival are the spectacularly adorned floats, called "yatai." They are paraded through the city with some featuring live Ohayashi festival music and another a puppet show using mechanical dolls. Kit Pancoast Nagamura visits people who are involved in preserving traditions related to the floats. Over in the nearby town of Hida-Furukawa, she joins a cycling tour to observe rural life, and tastes Japanese sake brewed by an American.

Koshu is the former name for Yamanashi Prefecture. In feudal times, it was the base for the powerful Takeda warlords and many traditional crafts date back to that era. Koshu Inden is a way of decorating deerskin with designs in lacquer. Fine washi paper is used for calligraphy. And nishikigoi (varicolored carp) are often considered living artworks. Woodblock print artist David Bull visits the Koshu area to discover this world of natural beauty and artisan skill.

Yagyu, which is located just outside Nara, is the ancestral home of the Yagyu family, which established Yagyu Shinkage-ryu. This sword art school was adopted by the Tokugawa Shogunate for its defense strategy. Its core philosophy-the sword of peace-had enormous influence on the shogun, ushering in an era of peace that lasted for 250 years during the Edo period. On Journeys in Japan, Stephen Nagy visits the area. The scholar, specializing in international relations of Northeast Asia, is a martial arts master, who holds a fourth dan grade in Kendo and fifth dan in Aikido. He'll discover the philosophy behind Yagyu Shinkage-ryu's "sword of peace."

Ishigaki Island-surrounded by beautiful coral reefs-is considered one of the world's best diving spots. In 2007, though, its corals were damaged to the brink of extinction due to the rise of sea temperatures caused by global warming. This became a turning point for the locals to reassess their traditional half-farming and half-fishing lifestyle, which is closely linked to the sea. Many people became involved in conserving the coral reefs. On Journeys in Japan, our camera plunges into the waters off Ishigaki and gets up close to one of the world's largest coral colonies and marine life, including courting manta rays. We also explore the lifestyle of the islanders who coexist with the ocean. Our reporter is British diver Bonnie Waycott, a resident of Japan for ten years. Bonnie works in broadcast media, and also writes for diving magazines. She gets to report from the field and from underwater!

Akita Prefecture is located 450 kilometers north of Tokyo. American actor Charles Glover visits the northern land in late autumn when local people are busy preparing for the long winter. They cover garden trees and buildings in straw sheets, in a practice known as "yuki-tsuri" and "yuki-gakoi," to protect them against the heavy snow and strong winds. These elaborate landscape wrappings are entirely functional, but look like works of art. Women make large batches of "gakko" pickles with locally harvested vegetables. People developed the pickling style hundreds of years ago to help them survive the long, harsh winters. Late autumn to early winter is the peak season for fishing sailfin sandfish, or "hatahata" in Japanese. People in Akita love the fish, which was long a traditional source of protein during the winter. They especially enjoy it as the main ingredient in a "nabemono" hotpot that is also seasoned with a hatahata by-product, "shotsuru." Shotsuru is unique to Akita and is made from aged, fermented sailfin sandfish. The hotpot dish is called "shotsuru nabe" and "hatahata nabe." Being one of Japan's snowiest regions and one of the top production centers of sake, Akita has developed a tradition of enjoying the long winter nights with friends in neighborhood bars and restaurants. Evenings are warmed with the camaraderie, fine sake, and cuisine that is heavy on the blessings of the sea. Fish from the waters off Akita taste the best in winter, because the colder the water is, the richer their flavor... Our traveler Charles Glover enjoys to his heart's content the singular culture of the land of snow, Akita, which unfolds in late autumn.