Around the Corner with John McGivern

John had expectations about Fond du Lac. He expected to find a city that is intertwined with Lake Winnebago. But he didn't expect wind surfing to be a year round sport, or that sturgeon spearing would be more like dinosaur hunting! Speaking of hunting, John didn't expect that talking to Wisconsin's turkey commander meant trekking through farm fields and sitting in a turkey blind. He also didn't expect to meet a dog sled musher or his 15 huskies, but once he was there, he knew he'd love the ride! John did expect to walk about five miles while at Mercury Marine because who hasn't driven by and thought, "THAT is a city!" He expected Fond du Lac to offer good food (OK, that one is really more a demand than an expectation), and Schreiner's, Jim and Linda's Lakeview Supper Club and Kelley Country Creamery delivered. He expected the memories to come flooding back when he got to Saint Lawrence Seminary. They did. He expected John Gurda to know the history and Mike McGivern to find a great prep sports team. They did. He expected the French name to mean Lake of Fondue. It doesn't. Now you can expect to enjoy Fond du Lac --- we did!

Once upon a time, the most affluent addresses in Milwaukee were on Grand Avenue. The name of the Avenue was changed to Wisconsin Avenue in the 1920's, and since, this city neighborhood has been touched by time in every way possible. When time takes its toll, reinvention and reinvestment can turn back the hands of time. The Eagles Club had fallen into disuse, but in the nick of time the Rave came along, opening the doors for music enthusiasts of all kinds. The Ambassador Hotel had fallen on hard times as well, but along came renovation and vision, and now it's one of the best hotels in the city! There are institutions here that help us keep up with the times, like WISN-TV, the Milwaukee Academy of Chinese Language and the ever-expanding Marquette University. But if you want to be transported back in time, go to the Pabst mansion or to North America's oldest prayer space, St. Joan of Arc Chapel. John's favorite time? Lunch time! Choosing between Daddy's, Miss Katies and the Five O'Clock Steakhouse was too hard, so John made time for all of them! So guess what time it is: Time to go to Avenues West!

We wish you could have seen John's face when he experienced Fort Atkinson for the first time. When we walked into Nasco's demo room where health care professionals were practicing life-saving skills on realistic looking body parts, his chin hit the floor. When he saw the fence around the rock that marks the spot of Atkinson's original fort, his eyebrows furrowed with puzzlement. When we told him to get in the canoe, his eyes widened with joy. (John Gurda's widened with fear!) When he slid down the slide at Busy Barns Adventure Farm, his smile was ear to ear. But when they put a goat in his lap, well, let's just say that his expression changed to one of panic! When he heard Bill sing at Café Carpe, his eyes closed in serenity. And when he tasted the sweet potato soufflé at The Fireside Dinner Theatre, his mouth watered with sheer joy. Fort Atkinson made John even more expressive than usual --- and that's not easy to do!

They call it Legendary Lake Mills. But as we explored this idyllic community, we uncovered facts, not legends. John Gurda warned us that some people believe that in the bottom of Rock Lake there are ancient pyramids. Others believe they are rock formations caused by geological shifts. Hence our first Fact: Rock Lake has either pyramids or rock formations, and if you want to debate it, we're not getting in the middle of it! Fact: Tyranena Brewing Company is the place to meet. Fact: Water House Foods and Doyle's Dogs personify the Lake Mills spirit: True quality --- of both people and food! (Oh, and John loves to eat. That's also a fact.) Fact: This is a city full of active people who really love to get outside and enjoy exercise and life. Fact: Ephraim Pottery is tremendously cool. Fact: Old Churches without active congregations in Lake Mills are recycled and reused, and John really wants to live in an old church - and Cynthia Weston's "chouse" is the one he wants most. Fact: Commons Park is really a town square shaped like a triangle --- and it's as charming as can be. Fact: Lake Mills will always be Legendary to us!

Where? That's what we thought. Just make your way to Brass Ball Corners. Of course if you're not a local, you're still lost. So google Wilmot, Twin Lakes, Paddock Lake, Salem, Bristol... These towns and others west of I-94 within Kenosha County make up the area now known as Westosha. But even once we got there we weren't always sure where we were. Rural Wisconsin? Lake Country? Key West Florida? Small Town USA? 16th Century England? Within Westosha, you can feel like you are in any or all of those places. What did we find? Cheese, lakes, horses, winged sprint cars, more cheese, charming small towns, more horses, waterskiing nuts, great food, the Ren Faire, scenic views that stole our breath away and people who stole our hearts. While we were in Westosha, we often heard people describe it as the quiet side of Kenosha County. Well, John enjoyed everyone we talked to so much that he's decided to stop in more often. So be warned: it might not be the quiet side of Kenosha County for long!

Wow! West Bend totally surprised us. Yes, we know it's only an hour northwest of Milwaukee, but we didn't know that this city has it all - and then some. West Bend is home to some true Wisconsin treasures. Where else are you going to find a fire fighting apparatus collection, a private zoo complete with celebrity bears named Lewis and Clark AND world class trombone musicians and craftsmen that will show you how they make trombones? John made some treasured memories too as he made soap, pickled watermelon rinds (and ate them, too --- truly yummy!), nosed around a fantastic downtown residence that used to be a hardware store and took orders at the local custard and burger shop. The girls at A Conversation Piece really got him talking, and the gigantic painting at the spectacular Museum of Wisconsin Art left him speechless. As John said, we're so glad that West Bend is close to Milwaukee because we love West Bend!

There is no truer definition of "North woods" than the area of northern Wisconsin that includes Hayward. There are two kinds of people you'll meet "Up North" --- those who want to relax and those who don't. No matter which type you are, Hayward is the right place. You can enjoy all the conveniences of a great city, and then be in total wilderness in less than 20 minutes from downtown Hayward. We started - where else? - in the shadow of the giant fish at the National Freshwater Fishing Museum and Hall of Fame. The first thing John realized is that there are two ways to spell the name of the type of fish that the sculpture represents: Muskie or Musky, depending on who he talked to. But in the end, it doesn't matter because anyone lucky enough to catch one spells it T-R-O-P-H-Y! There are two preferred ways to get around in Hayward --- by boat or by skis. There are two kinds of wood workers --- those who use tools to make furniture and those who use chainsaws to make art. There are two kinds of lumberjacks at Fred Sheers --- the winners and the losers. There are two kinds of residents --- summer (the majority) and year round (the minority). There are two kinds of housing --- cabins in the woods or cabins on a lake. It took all week, but John did master the spelling of "Birkiebeiner": B-I-R-K-I-E! He also changed the spelling of Hayward to H-E-A-V-E-N!

Talk about hanging with the cool kids! Just north of downtown Milwaukee, this neighborhood is the definition of revitalization. As soon as you set foot in historic Brewers Hill, you feel more eclectic, down to earth, conscientious and energetic. So much is old and so much is new and it's all blended perfectly. Schlitz Park alone could be a whole episode. Across the street at the building known as the Fortress, one of the oldest buildings in the neighborhood, we found one of the "techiest" companies we've ever met. And in one of the oldest Lutheran churches in the city is an active congregation that is taking on education and thriving with the changing the times. And there's plenty of fun to be had in this neighborhood, too. You have to experience Lakefront Brewery, the only brewery in Brewers Hill. Stroll through the most spectacular garden that you didn't know is there, catch some Shakespeare in the Park, row down the Milwaukee River or catch a game and some great food at SkyBox sports bar. We have to admit that as Milwaukeeans, we have a special affinity for the Brewers Hill neighborhood and its people. And it was great for John to be one of the cool kids --- even for just a little while!

Well, let's see. There's a village, a city, a lake and a high school all named Pewaukee. What's next, Pewaukee County? Well, John did find Pewaukee the State --- of mind, that is - and it's friendly, fun and relaxing. "Friendly" perfectly describes Connie Watt (yep, JJ's mom), the folks at American Transmission Company and the owner and grandson of Century fence. Actually, we could put everyone we met in this category... But "Fun" is the only way to describe Silly Willyz! "Relaxing?" Well, it was relaxing when John went fishing off the pier at Smokey's Bait shop and puttered around the lake on Loerhke's incredible pontoon boat. But it was not so relaxing when he got the MPTV van towed by Ken Weber, or when he appeared in front of Judge Melissa Murray. It was relaxing when he smelled the alligator (with no alligator in it) meatloaf at the Beer Depot and when he sat back and enjoyed Louie's famous fillet at The Butler Inn of Pewaukee. It was not so relaxing when the firefighter driving the hover boat moved over to let John drive...

You don't have to be a Green Bay Packer fan to be a fan of Green Bay. After all, the Packers aren't the only great attraction in this city. But then again, let's face it: True Wisconsinites LOVE their green and gold! In the fanaticism that exists around the Packers, John had a blast with people who live, work AND play, all because of the Packers. But if you're a parent or grandparent, it's possible that you're an even bigger fan of Bay Beach. Young children certainly are giant fans of this one-of-a-kind amusement park. In Titletown, there's great food, great history and great atmosphere. There's a really great event series on the City Deck called Dine on the Deck event every Wednesday in the summer. And there are great employers, like Green Bay Packaging and Schneider Trucking. It was really easy for John to become a great fan of Green Bay --- and he's a fan of all of it, not just of the Packers. But just so you know, he did perfect the cheer. Go Pack Go!

How is it possible that atmosphere in the area around East North Avenue hasn't changed since John was a kid? The truth is that this part of Milwaukee has always had a busy, eclectic vibe. Such vitality, such camaraderie, such noise! The only quiet we found was in the ultra-cool East Library, which doesn't look or feel like the library of John's youth, that's for sure. Everything in this neighborhood is unique. That's why John is not the only one who frequents particular businesses and institutions that call the East North Avenue neighborhood home. There are some destinations that are truly Milwaukee classics: The Landmark Oriental Theatre, Landmark Bowl, Von Trier, Beans & Barley and Villa Terrace, just to name a few. Even the neighbors who haven't been here forever have the East North Avenue vibe. John was completely comfortable at UWM's Peck School of the Arts in the Kenilworth Building, the Standard Apartments above the new library, and especially at Dewan Dental. No kidding --- so comfortable we had to wake him to leave! East North Avenue is proof for John that you absolutely CAN go home, because this neighborhood will always BE home.

Baraboo isn't clowning around when it comes to fun things to do. Well it is, but in the best possible way. It's easy to say the circus heritage and present celebration of everything the Ringlings built are the heart of this town. But in Baraboo, the greatest show is actually the community that thrives here. Do you know what Sysco does? Unless you own a restaurant, we bet you don't. Can't find that out of print book that you've always wanted? We know where you can get it. Do you think you already own every kitchen gadget? Bekah Kate can sell you tons of stuff you don't have. Ever been to a casino that will teach you how to win at Blackjack? Then you need to go to Ho-Chunk University. Have you enjoyed the best caramel apple crumble pie in the world? Since John made it himself at Log Cabin, we're pretty sure you haven't. Ladies and gentlemen and children of all ages can do all that AND enjoy the Greatest Show on Earth in Baraboo. As Singing Ringmaster Dave Salutos says, this is a place where you can be 14 again. Finally! A place where John can really be himself!

When we anticipated coming to Hudson, we expected to experience a suburb of St. Paul, MN. But we had it completely backwards. Since everyone wants to live in Hudson, Minnesota built a city so that people from Hudson could just go across the river to work, right? But not all of the work is in MN. John would work at Laser Magic, Empire Bucket, Plantables, and Ciranda --- all at the same time, if he could. There's art to be made and buy, food to be created and eaten (that's the part John likes), and there are patios to sit on, beer caves to be explored and company to be enjoyed. Really, the character and reality here make Hudson typical of and unique to Wisconsin. A lot of the license plates may say Minnesota, but Hudson's heart says Wisconsin!