Journeys in Japan

Koyasan, Wakayama: A Temple Stay to Recharge (1x35)

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This week on "journeys in japan" we visit Koyasan in Wakayama prefecture. It's an ancient Buddhist sanctuary, far removed from the secular world. More than 1000 priests reside in the mountain hamlet, engaged in daily ascetic practices. There are 117 temples in Koyasan, but the whole complex is regarded as one big temple for Shingon Esoteric Buddhism. Koyasan was registered as a World Cultural Heritage site in 2004. It draws more than 1-million tourists every year. Temple stays, called shukubo, are proving popular with visitors from overseas. They take in the tranquil life of monks through involvement in ascetic practices-a rarefied experience not normally a part of tourism. Our reporter JJ has been in Japan for 10 years, but this will be his first time to stay at a temple. He is looking forward to partaking in its various rituals. JJ has booked a room at Ekoin, a temple that is very popular among visitors from abroad, who account for nearly half of its overnight guests. Resident-monk Chokei Tamura, who lived in the UK, looks after him. He explains the shukubo or daily schedule for the temple. A strictly followed timetable is observed at Ekoin during guests' stay. The first program is the 4:30 p.m. meditation session. Then, from 5:30, guests delight in Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, called shojin-ryori. After supper, they try their hand at transcribing Buddhist sutra. Then at dawn, they'll rise to take part in a service starting at 6:30 a.m. From 7:00, they attend a bonfire ritual called the Goma. JJ, like others, is on a spiritual journey to experience the Koyasan way of life, and perhaps even encounter a few things to incorporate in life at home.